Thursday, September 10, 2009

Sliders

It seems that instead of supersizing, posh Americans are 'sliding.' They're deliberately paying more to eat less meat. Whether there is a deeper psychological theme to consider here, I'll let you decide, but all I know is that when you have a pound of meat and two people, it's more fun to experiment, leading me to a night of sliders.

Over the past year I've seen some pretty interesting versions, but they're all based on a similar premise: small bun (usually more artisanal bread), small patty, simple additions, fries and/or salad.

The small bun is an interesting point because bakers have churned out really good buttery rolls that far exceed the average burger bun. And why not? When it's only a few bites for each, the meat (even if the ratio of burger/bun stays the same) has less of a chance to overpower the bun. +1 slider.

Occasionally you'll see a restaurant offer regular ole' beef patty sliders. I think even White Castle started doing this?! Often (at least in NYC), you'll see an important adjective next to beef. Like "Kobe," or "free-range" or "grass fed" or "organic." The idea is that somehow because the meat is smaller, the restaurant has to make up the difference in size with taste (or at least perceived taste, as unfortunately there are many organic burgers that are simply awful). I still think this a plus. If we ate smaller portions from local farms all the time, we would be a much healthier and happier country. Off the point though. +2 slider.

Rarely, you'll even see the restaurant taking it a step further. Game. Ever had ostrich? No need to get the 25 dollar plate. Try a 4 dollar slider. Then, once you're hooked and thought to yourself "my god this tastes good... too bad they're so cute" you'll dive in for the 25 dollar plate. Brilliant marketing. One place I went to in Brooklyn had an absolutely brilliant scheme. They paired up a gamey slider with a 4 oz beer, a cheese, and a style of potato. You could order just one, but since these guys are too small to share, watching your buddy roll his eyes back first bite in will make you want to try whatever s/he ate. So, all of a sudden you've order 4 sliders and spent more on burgers than you ever had. But oh are they good.

And every once and a while you'll get a little 'balsamic drizzle' or something fancy to top it off. Blue cheese emulsion (I don't even know what that would be, but sounds pretty).

As a home cook, however, sliders allow you to try to cook burgers in lots of different styles and with lots of different ingredients. Plus, you really have to try hard to cook them wrong since the meat is more likely to cook evenly when it's thinner. Yum.

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